In recent times, Nepal has emerged as a hotbed for mountaineering achievements, with numerous teams returning from the heights of the Himalayas after successfully charting first ascents and forging new routes on less-explored peaks. These journeys encompassed a diverse range of approaches and challenges, unveiling the myriad experiences that Nepal’s mountains offer. Whether they adopted alpine-style ascents or traditional Himalayan methods, the mountaineers tackled routes that varied in difficulty, from relatively straightforward to exceptionally demanding. Even smaller commercial teams eagerly embraced this trend, emphasizing the timeless allure of the Himalayas for adventurous souls, provided they bypass the formidable 8,000-meter peaks.
Rolwaling Himal: Tengi Ragi Tau’ Triumph
Representing the Czech Republic, Marek Disman and Jakub Vlcek embarked on an extraordinary mission to blaze a new trail on the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau, a towering peak that reaches an impressive 6,938 meters in the remote Rolwaling Himal. Their ascent followed the genuine alpine style, spanning the period from October 29 to 31. This intrepid duo faced the formidable challenge, involving a bivouac on the ascent and another during the descent, underscoring the expedition’s demanding nature.
They aptly christened their direct route up the face as “Honzova cesta,” which translates to “Johnny’s Route” in Czech. This audacious route encompassed sections with an imposing 80-degree incline and difficulties reaching up to M5. Notably, their chosen path led them directly up the central section of the face, to the left of the previously established “Trinite” route, pioneered by Symon Welfringer and Charles Noirot in 2019.
It’s important to note that their compatriots, Jan Kreisinger and Karel Roudnicky, had attempted the same route in 2021 but were compelled to abandon their endeavor after two bivouacs due to unfavorable weather conditions. Kreisinger, despite being part of the 2023 expedition, had to retreat after the initial section of the climb due to inadequate acclimatization.
The team emphasized that their objective was never to reach the main summit of Tengi Ragi Tau. Instead, they aimed to complete the route left unfinished in 2021, opting for the most direct approach. Marek Disman explained, “We started from the same point as the 2021 climbers but then took a more direct line in the middle of the gigantic West Face toward one of the secondary summits above the greater ice serac below the summit ridge. That was the rational end of our direct line. At the same time, we ensured we were the first to set foot on that secondary summit.”
Conquering Damodar Himal in Upper Mustang: Luke Smithwick’s Achievements
Meanwhile, Luke Smithwick, a ski mountaineer and guide from the United States, returned from an expedition to Upper Mustang in north-central Nepal, celebrating a series of remarkable achievements. Smithwick’s team achieved two first ascents in the Damodar Himal. The first involved conquering the west ridge of a 5,952-meter peak, a challenging alpine-style ascent that they aptly named Gorak Himal, signifying “Raven Peak” in Tibetan.
Their second accomplishment revolved around scaling the south face of 6,759-meter Khumjungar Himal. Both peaks presented steep sections of snow and ice, along with segments of fifth-class rock climbing. Smithwick explained, “We secured some sections lower on the peak.” The team comprised Ted Hedberg, Chris Lane, Bennett Woomer, Ernie Johnson from the United States, and Pemba Rita Sherpa from Nepal.
Smithwick, who had harbored a decade-long aspiration to explore the Damodar region, expressed his contentment with the expedition, highlighting that they encountered no other adventurers during their entire journey and made exciting discoveries of fossils.
Read More: New Route Up Flat Top Peak in Northwest India
Triumph on Jugal 5: Nima Gyalzen Sherpa’s Himalayan Odyssey
In another corner of the Himalayas, Nima Gyalzen Sherpa of Dolma Outdoor Expedition, alongside his brother Pemba Dorje Sherpa and his nephew Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa, led an expedition to Jugal 5. Their team included Jaime Salinas from Mexico and Sajja Chaulagain, a Nepal Idol contestant and accomplished singer.
Although the team had permits for Jugal 3, 4, and 5, they ultimately decided to conquer only Jugal 5. This adventure stands as another testament to the enduring appeal of Nepal’s mountains and the unwavering spirit of those who embark on these bold journeys.
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