Nepal’s Department of Tourism has recently revealed that 329 climbers from 52 different countries have secured permits to scale seven Himalayan peaks during the upcoming autumn climbing season, signaling another busy period in the mountains.
Out of the total, a significant majority of 290 climbers have chosen to attempt Manaslu, the eighth-highest mountain in the world, known for its challenging weather and avalanche risks. The remaining climbers have received permits for other notable peaks, including Putha Hiunchuli and Annapurna IV, which are favored for their technical routes and breathtaking scenery. Dhaulagiri I, the seventh-highest peak, is also on the list, attracting highly experienced mountaineers aiming to conquer its notoriously difficult terrain.
Smaller, specialized teams are set to tackle more remote and less-frequented summits like Jannu, famed for its steep rock faces, Takargo East, and Phungi, offering a variety of challenges for climbers looking for unique adventures.
This detailed update was shared by the Department of Tourism. Photo: Everest Today.
Takargo and Takargo East: A History of First Ascents
Takargo East standing at 6,152 meters, is located in the Rolwaling Himal range slightly southeast of the more prominent Takargo peak, which rises to 6,771 meters. Both peaks are lesser known but challenging destinations for mountaineers looking to explore more remote and less crowded areas of the Himalayas.
Takargo was officially opened for climbing by Nepal in 2003. Its first successful ascent happened in the spring of 2010, when American climbers David Gottlieb and Joseph Puryear reached the summit. This remains the only officially recorded climb of Takargo, according to the Himalayan Database. Despite its rugged beauty and technical difficulty, the peak has not seen much activity since that historic climb, making it a relatively untouched gem in the region.
Takargo East, a smaller but equally demanding peak, was only opened to climbers about a decade ago. The first successful ascent occurred in autumn 2015, when three experienced Nepalese mountaineers—Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa—reached the summit. This marked a significant achievement, as Takargo East had remained unclimbed until then. The second successful climb came in early 2017, when American climber John Kelley summited the peak, cementing its reputation as a challenging yet rewarding climb.
Since then, there have been no further recorded ascents of Takargo East, adding an air of exclusivity to this remote Himalayan peak. Both Takargo and Takargo East continue to intrigue climbers seeking new and less-traveled paths in the high Himalayas.
Phungi: A Remote and Unclimbed Himalayan Challenge
Phungi, standing at 6,524 meters, is part of the Peri Himal range, located southeast of Ratna Chuli near the Tibetan border. Despite its official opening for climbing in 2014, Phungi remains an unclimbed peak, holding a sense of mystery and challenge for mountaineers.
Only one serious attempt has been made to reach its summit. In 2022 a team of three experienced Japanese climbers Kisuke Goto Masaki Adachi and Taichi Kagami, set out to conquer the west face of Phungi’s south ridge. The climb was extremely challenging with the team battling through deep snow that slowed their progress. Unfortunately their journey was cut short at an elevation of 6150 meters due to a combination of altitude sickness AMS and frostbite. Despite their efforts they were forced to retreat without reaching the summit.
Phungi remains one of the few unclimbed peaks in the region, making it an alluring yet difficult target for climbers seeking unexplored routes and high-altitude adventure. Its untouched summit continues to await those daring enough to take on the challenge.
