Another Heartbreaking Incident on Gasherbrum IV: Nilov Feared Dead, Two Injured, Urgent Call for Help
A devastating tragedy struck Gasherbrum IV yesterday when a falling serac hit a group of Russian climbers, leading to heartbreaking consequences. Sergey Nilov is feared to have lost his life, while two of his companions sustained injuries, one of them critically. Back in Russia, their loved ones are urgently coordinating a rescue effort, reaching out to the global mountaineering community for assistance in this time of crisis.
The team Sergey Nilov, Mikhail Mironov, Alexey Bautin, Sergei Mironov, and Evgeni Yablokov had set out on an extremely challenging mission to Gasherbrum IV, a high peak at 7,925 meters. Their objective was both valiant and deeply impressive: to recover the body of their fellow climber, Dmitry Golovchenko, who unfortunately lost his life in 2023. Golovchenko had died during an attempt with Nilov to make the first ascent of the Southeast Ridge, falling from a height of 7,684 meters. Nilov, enduring the unimaginable, managed to descend alone. He found Golovchenko’s body, wrapped him in a tent, but, overwhelmed by the circumstances, had no choice but to leave him behind.
In their courageous bid to bring their friend home, the team has now faced another disaster, leaving them and their families in a desperate struggle for survival and closure.
2023 Survivor Nilov Trapped Beneath Serac in Latest Tragedy
“Their expedition was meant to bring closure to a heartbreaking loss,” the Pakistan Alpine Club shared in a recent press release.
Tragically, this noble quest for closure has led to another devastating disaster. While navigating a treacherous icefall at approximately 6,400 meters, a massive serac gave way, striking the team and shattering their hopes.
At present, Sergei Nilov is reported missing and feared dead, as his teammates have confirmed he was buried under the fallen serac. Mikhail and Sergei Mironov also sustained injuries, with one of them in critical condition.
“They are unable to descend on their own,” Irina Morozova from the Russian Federation of Alpinism told ExplorersWeb. “One is severely injured, and they only have one ice axe between them,” underscoring the dire and desperate situation facing these climbers.
Desperate Call for Help
Bautin and Yablokov were safely airlifted to Skardu yesterday, but their mission is far from over. They are determined to return to the mountain to assist in the rescue of the Mironovs. However, they find themselves in need of help as well. Their attempts to enlist local climbers were met with disappointment, as those climbers lacked the expertise required to tackle the treacherous icefall.
The survivors are now urgently searching for highly skilled climbers near Skardu who can lend their expertise to this critical operation.
The helicopters will make another attempt to rescue the three missing climbers, including Sergey Nilov, explained Irina Morozova. Given the complexity of the situation, longline rescue methods may not be feasible. A direct, physical approach to reach the climbers at approximately 6,400 meters in the icefall is necessary.
Efforts are underway to drop a tent, medical supplies, and other essential gear to the stranded climbers.
If you have the skills and are willing to assist, please email contact (at) explorersweb.com, and we will connect you with Alexey Bautin. Alternatively, he can be reached directly at the Blue Sky Hotel in Skardu.
