Benjamin Vedrines and Leo Billon accomplished something truly awe-inspiring within the climbing world. They embarked on a daunting challenge conquering three iconic routes on some of the most formidable mountains in the Alps The Drus the Droites and the Grandes Jorasses.
What sets their achievement apart is the remarkable circumstances under which they did it. Braving the harsh winter conditions, they undertook the monumental task without a break, without rest, and without shelter on the mountainside. For three consecutive days, they pushed their limits to the extreme, facing the unforgiving elements and the immense physical and mental challenges that come with such a feat.
Their journey included scaling the daunting Petit Dru’s Voie des Guides and the formidable No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, accomplishing both in record-breaking times. Additionally, they tackled the demanding Droite’s Rhem-Vimal route with remarkable speed and precision.
Each ascent was a testament to their extraordinary skill steady determination and unparalleled endurance. Their ability to navigate the treacherous domain with such speed and grace showcased their mastery of the craft and solidified their place among the elite climbers of the world.
Even in the midst of their remarkable achievement Benjamin Vedrines’s mind was already racing towards their next climbing adventure a testament to his boundless passion and relentless pursuit of the ultimate challenge.
Famous Mountains
These three mountains in the Mont Blanc area hold a legendary status among climbers worldwide. Yet, despite their familiarity, there are still countless ways to push the boundaries of alpine excellence on these iconic faces, a feat brilliantly demonstrated by Vedrines and Billon.
Each of these mountains is a coveted prize for any seasoned alpinist, but the level of achievement escalates based on the chosen route, speed of ascent, climbing style, and prevailing conditions. Venturing into the realm of winter climbing, Vedrines and Billon embarked on extraordinarily challenging routes, committing to a completely free ascent without the luxury of bivouacs. Such an attempt is reserved for climbers of the highest caliber requiring not just skill but also unwavering determination and mental fortitude.
The duo meticulously planned their ascent, pouring over maps and weather forecasts for years before finally executing their vision. Their careful approach and dedication to their craft underscore the magnitude of their achievement, setting a new standard for alpine excellence.
Experience Trumps Training
“We didn’t follow a strict training regimen specifically for these climbs,” explained Vedrines, delving into their approach. “Instead, we’ve been methodically selecting challenging projects over the years, both in winter and summer seasons. This helped us gradually build up our endurance and refine our rock climbing skills, preparing us for the demands of such monumental undertakings.”
Rather than adhering to rigid training routines, Vedrines and Billon opted for a more organic approach, honing their abilities through practical experience and real-world challenges.
While Vedrines had engaged in some dry-tooling sessions to sharpen his technique, Billon found himself facing the mixed terrain of these north faces without having wielded ice axes on rocky surfaces for a full year.
Vedrines emphasized the significance of experience in tackling ambitious endeavors like this. Both climbers had accrued invaluable knowledge and proficiency through their shared ventures, forming a strong foundation for their latest exploits. Their unwavering determination was fueled by the realization that this venture marked a pivotal moment in their mountaineering careers.
Furthermore, Vedrines stressed the importance of time in their preparation. “We had the luxury of ample time to train meticulously, prepare thoroughly, and patiently await the opportune weather conditions. Such alignment of factors is exceedingly rare and played a crucial role in our success.”
Exploring New Terrain
For Vedrines and Billon the Alps are more than just mountains they’re their familiar stomping grounds. They’ve spent enough time there to know every nook and cranny understand the ever-changing weather patterns and pack the right gear for any adventure. But when it came to their chosen routes they opted for a bold approach—they decided to tackle them onsight without any prior knowledge or reconnaissance.
We went into it blind, Vedrines admitted. Yet, they approached the first two routes with a sense of familiarity, effortlessly navigating through the terrain as if they were seasoned veterans. Even the descents, which involved navigating through complex rappels, went off without a hitch.
However, their journey took an unexpected turn when they began their ascent of the infamous No Siesta on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. Soon after starting, they found themselves off course. Vedrines vividly recalls the moment:
We misinterpreted a photo shared by a friend the day before, leading us to veer too far to the left. I had to backtrack while Leo attempted a different route, hoping to find a way out before nightfall. But the conditions weren’t ideal, so we regrouped and returned to the original No Siesta route where we went astray.
Eventually, Leo managed to navigate through a particularly challenging section, but not without a significant time loss. This setback meant they reached the summit under the cover of darkness. With temperatures dropping rapidly and no gear for an unscheduled bivouac, they had no option but to continue their ascent, driven by their unwavering determination and the instinct to conquer the mountain.
Critical Moments
Vedrines reflects on the pivotal moments where the climbers’ efficiency on the previous routes became crucial for their success on the Grandes Jorasses.
If we had lingered just an hour longer on the North Face of the Drus, it would have complicated our plans for the next day’s climb. Similarly, had we taken an additional two hours on the North Face of the Droites, continuing to the Grandes Jorasses the following day would have been challenging.
The intensity of their adventure was magnified when they encountered difficulties on No Siesta. Vedrines recounts the tense situation: I couldn’t shake the uncertainty of whether we’d find our way out. Any rescue attempt would have been immensely challenging given the steep terrain.
He elaborates on the challenging moment: We found ourselves in a precarious position, with the Bonatti route to the left offering unstable, crumbling rock, and a seemingly elusive passage to the right. Exhausted from the prior days’ climbs, we had to muster all our focus to navigate the best course of action.
A Lifelong Dream
Vedrines openly acknowledges that the trilogy represents the culmination of a lifetime’s worth of ambition, demanding a comprehensive skill set to master. Surprisingly, they hadn’t initially planned to embark on this endeavor during the winter season. “I had originally intended to defer it for a later time because I was deeply engrossed in another solo project,” Vedrines revealed. “But the allure of teaming up with Leo and the inner voice telling me that the timing was just right was too compelling to ignore.”
Reflecting on his decision, Vedrines couldn’t be more satisfied. “Leo and I complement each other perfectly, forming an indomitable duo. It would have been regrettable to let such a golden opportunity slip away!”
For most climbers, completing the alpine trilogy alone would be the crowning achievement of an entire year, yet it’s only February, and Benjamin Vedrines isn’t one to rest on his laurels. Stay tuned for further details about his forthcoming adventures, to be unveiled in a separate story tomorrow.
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