In the heart of the Annapurna winter expedition, Alex Txikon’s team finds themselves stationed at Camp 2, nestled at 5,600 meters. The next leg of their journey awaits them as they gear up for the trek to Camp 3, a pivotal juncture where critical decisions about the final push to the summit will unfold.
The diverse team, consisting of Alex Txikon, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Matia Conte, and the recent addition of Moeses Fiamoncini, commenced their ascent from Base Camp, reaching Camp 1 yesterday before progressing to Camp 2 today. Joining them at Camp 2 are Passang Nurbu, Ming Temba, and Pemba Serpa, having undertaken the challenging climb from Base Camp. Encouragingly, the team notes a considerable improvement in weather conditions, with winds subsiding at the higher altitudes.
The next critical juncture for the team lies at Camp 3, positioned at an elevation of 6,400 meters. Here, they will meticulously evaluate prevailing conditions. If the weather holds favorable, and the climbers maintain their current well-being, the decision to initiate the final summit push may be made as early as the ensuing night.
Friday looms as a formidable challenge for the team, given the absence of a fourth camp. The ascent to the summit entails conquering a staggering 1,700 meters, navigating potentially vertical sections that may necessitate rope fixing. Subsequently, they face the daunting summit ridge characterized by deep, soft snow and the absence of a marked trail. The arduous descent back to Camp 3 completes this rigorous leg of the expedition. Worth noting is Alex Txikon’s adherence to climbing without supplementary oxygen.
Despite the biting cold, the expedition has been graced with clear, sunny skies and predominantly dry weather since establishing base camp on December 23. However, last week saw the team temporarily confined to Base Camp due to the disruptive effects of the jet stream in the upper reaches of the peak.
