Zdenek Hak and Radoslav Groh on West Face of Cholatse
In a testament to courage and determination, Piolet d’Or laureates Zdenek Hak and Radoslav Groh have etched their names in mountaineering history by forging a groundbreaking route on the formidable west face of Cholatse in Nepal. Yet, their triumph is shrouded in the somber memory of their lost companion, Jan Ross.
The expedition commenced with Hak and Groh joining a larger Czech contingent aiming for the conventional route up Cholatse. To acclimatize, they undertook preparatory climbs on Lobuche. However, tragedy struck as they scaled Cholatse’s normal line, claiming the life of their teammate, Jan Ross, in a heart-wrenching fall. After a poignant interlude to retrieve Ross’s remains, the duo, deeply affected but resolute, decided to pursue their original aspiration following a 10-day hiatus.
Facing the west face alone
November 1 marked the commencement of their independent ascent, unaccompanied by porters. Their first night’s bivouac perched at 4,900 meters, surpassing the conventional Cholatse Base Camp site by 200 meters. Acknowledging the inherent risks, Hak and Groh opted for a cautious approach, splitting the climb into two days. They tackled three challenging ice icicle pitches and navigated through comparatively moderate terrain for four pitches, eventually reaching a secure ice cave nestled at the base of a prominent serac.
Read More: Czech Climber Jan Ros’s Tragic Demise on Cholatse
Taking refuge within the ice cave shielded them from incessant rockfall, providing respite before their final push, which commenced at 2 am the subsequent day.
Enduring the ascent’s challenges
After an arduous 14-hour climb exclusively on ice, the summit ridge finally loomed ahead. However, the treacherous terrain offered no safe haven for a bivouac due to ice slopes with gradients ranging from 60 to 90 degrees. Progressing to the southwest ridge, Hak and Groh reached the summit at 5:30 am, capturing moments through the lens before embarking on the descent. Negotiating the southwest ridge and transitioning to the normal route in darkness, fixed ropes facilitated their swift descent to Camp 1 at 5,600 meters.
Paying homage to their fallen comrade
Continuing their descent from Camp 1 on October 4, the climbers diligently scoured the terrain for the missing camera belonging to their departed teammate, Jan Ross. Their perseverance bore fruit as they located the camera, offering closure to Ross’s family and allowing a poignant remembrance ceremony to honor his memory. Their descent culminated in Lukla a day later, followed by a flight to Kathmandu on November 6.
The climbers dedicated their arduous and groundbreaking new route to the cherished memory of Jan Ross, commemorating his indomitable spirit and camaraderie amidst the bittersweet culmination of their expedition.
