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Tyler Andrews The Future of Himalayan FKTs

by thesummiters.com
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Tyler’s Extraordinary Feat: Tyler Andrews is currently taking a well-deserved breather on the sun-kissed beaches of Thailand after accomplishing an awe-inspiring feat. In a mere 26 days, this American sky-runner achieved the remarkable feat of setting six Fastest Known Times (FKTs) in Nepal. Before officially submitting these astounding records to Fastestknowntime.org, Tyler took a moment to reflect on the incredible potential of FKTs in the Himalayas.

Tyler Andrews Profile Photo
Tyler Andrews Profile Photo

Record-Breaking Triumphs

Tyler’s impressive FKTs encompassed conquering some of Nepal’s most challenging peaks, including the Three Passes Tour, Ama Dablam from Pangboche, Lobuche East, Nangkartshang Peak, Chukkung Ri, and Island Peak. It’s worth noting that three of these records were previously held by the renowned Swiss climber, Ueli Steck. What’s truly surprising is that, among these, Tyler encountered limited competition, leaving him both astonished and exhilarated.

Surging Interest in FKTs

Beyond his personal achievements, Tyler recognizes a surging interest in FKTs that has been rapidly gaining momentum, especially since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. With traditional sports competitions put on hold, many athletes, including Tyler, turned to individual challenges like FKTs to quench their thirst for adventure.

Navigating Himalayan Challenges

The Himalayan peaks pose a unique set of challenges for FKT endeavors. These mountains are intricate and ever-changing conditions introduce inherent risks that have deterred many from embarking on swift ascents. However, the increased accessibility brought about by commercialization has paved the way for expedited climbs. Tyler acknowledges that his successful FKT on Ama Dablam would have been an insurmountable task without the indispensable use of fixed ropes.

Recent Pinnacle Successes

Recent ascents by fellow climbers in the Himalayas have further accentuated the burgeoning trend of FKTs. Notable achievements include Pemba Gelje Sherpa’s record-breaking ascent of Manaslu in just 12 hours from Base Camp, Matheo Jacquemoud’s remarkable round trip time on Ama Dablam in 6 hours and 23 minutes, and the swift summit of Cho Oyu by Benedikt Boehm and Prakash Sherpa in a mere 12 hours and 35 minutes.

Understanding the Impact of Changing Conditions

While some may question the significance of speed records on lofty mountains where conditions are ever-changing, Tyler underscores the importance of FKTs. He posits that the dynamism of conditions adds an intriguing dimension to outdoor sports competitions. In a manner similar to how temperature can affect marathon running, shifting conditions in mountain climbs present athletes with unique challenges. To ensure clarity, Tyler employs the terms “FKT” and “speed record” interchangeably.

The Value of Support: Tyler’s ascent of Manaslu was made possible with the support of Sonam Sherpa from Asian Trekking. The presence of a supporting partner can be invaluable, especially when an individual is more at home with sky-running than technical climbing. They made use of fixed ropes but refrained from employing short-roping. Tyler firmly believes that a rope team is a suitable form of support.

Certification and Diverse Categories

Fastestknowntime.org has established precise guidelines for the validation of FKTs, and a discerning group of individuals is entrusted with the task of reviewing these claims. FKTs are categorized into three distinct types: unsupported, self-supported (typically involving some form of preparation such as cached supplies), and supported.

Tyler Andrews’s Remarkable Achievements

Tyler’s extraordinary journey in Nepal resulted in the establishment of six FKTs. Here’s a concise summary of his outstanding records:

Three Passes Loop

Tyler covered a staggering 85km and ascended high points ranging from 5,300m to 5,500m in a mere 19 hours and 40 minutes, shattering the previous record of 36 hours held by Pemba Sherpa.

Ama Dablam (6,814m)

This audacious endeavor saw Tyler summit and complete a round trip in just 7 hours and 4 minutes, encompassing a 16km route with a 3,000m elevation gain. This remarkable feat surpassed the previous record of 10 hours held by Pemba Sherpa. The round trip, spanning 32km with a 3,000m elevation gain, was achieved in a mere 13 hours and 18 minutes.

Tyler Andrews at Ama Dablam (6,814m)
Tyler Andrews at Ama Dablam (6,814m)

Read More: Denmark’s Mark Boelskifte to Conquer AmaDablam

Lobuche East (6,119m)

The ascent from Dzongla to the summit was accomplished in an astonishing 1 hour and 36 minutes, triumphing over the prior record of 1 hour and 49 minutes set by Ueli Steck.

Nangkartshang Peak (5,089m): Tyler’s ascent from Dingboche to the Summit was completed in a mere 36 minutes and 26 seconds, besting the previous record of 43 minutes and 6 seconds established by Olivier Robelin.

Chukkung Ri (5,572m)

The journey to the summit from Chukkung took a swift 45 minutes and 28 seconds, outperforming the previous record of 53 minutes and 21 seconds held by Ueli Steck.

Island Peak (6,189m): Tyler’s adventure encompassed covering an impressive 11km with a 1,600m elevation gain on the route from Chukkung to the summit. This remarkable feat was achieved in just 3 hours and 6 minutes, surpassing the previous record of 3 hours and 29 minutes set by Ueli Steck. The round trip, spanning 22km with a 1,600m elevation gain, was completed in a mere 5 hours and 29 minutes, outshining the previous record of 6 hours and 15 minutes held by Ueli Steck.

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