Team Achieves Three New First Ascents in Northern Pakistan

An international climbing team of four has achieved an impressive feat by making three first ascents in just 30 days in the remote Shimshal Valley of northern Pakistan.

The team, consisting of Masha Gordon, Oswaldo Freire, Jack Sturm, and Joshua Jarrin, began their expedition with a groundbreaking ascent of Peak 132 in the Karun Koh range. They named the 6,060-meter peak Mashallah Sar, meaning “God has willed it.” Their climb of this 1,000-meter route was rated TD, M4, marking a significant achievement in the region’s climbing history.

The climbers also made an impressive ascent of Peak 143 (5,850m) in the Karun Koh range, which they named Shams Sar. Their route on this peak was 500 meters long and rated D+, M4.

Their third first ascent was Peak 144 in the same range, which they christened Pozeve Sar. Standing at 5,750 meters, this mountain added to their remarkable achievements in the region.

As we reported earlier, the team faced a tough approach to the Karun Koh base camp from the southern side. Navigating through the ravines to reach the glacier was a major challenge, and they had to install ropes to assist their porters through the rough terrain.

Upon arriving at base camp, the team focused on scouting potential routes on the towering 6,977-meter Karun Koh. After careful evaluation, they selected two main lines and successfully completed one of them.