Home NEWS Japanese Climbers Fall Short on Sharpu VI but Successfully Summit Another Unclimbed Peak

Japanese Climbers Fall Short on Sharpu VI but Successfully Summit Another Unclimbed Peak

by thesummiters.com
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November 13, 2023

Japanese Climbers’ Last-Minute Summit Attempt on Sharpu VI Foiled, but Conquer Unclimbed Peak ThaNagphu Instead

Against the breathtaking backdrop of Nepal’s Kangchenjunga region, a trio of intrepid Japanese climbers—Takahiro Kaneko, Saki Terada, and Takahiro Ishikawa—embarked on a daring expedition to conquer the uncharted heights of Sharpu VI. Their journey, characterized by meticulous planning and unyielding perseverance, unfolded with a riveting mix of challenges and unexpected triumphs.

Takahiro Kaneko, Saki Terada, and Takahiro Ishikawa
Japanese Climber Takahiro Kaneko, Saki Terada, and Takahiro Ishikawa

The three-member Japanese expedition embarked on their daring ascent of the uncharted Sharpu VI with a carefully planned last-ditch effort, commencing from a high camp as scheduled yesterday. Takahiro Kaneko, Saki Terada, and Takahiro Ishikawa strategically established two camps and diligently fixed portions of the route leading up Sharpu VI, a formidable 6,076-meter peak nestled in the Kangchenjunga region of eastern Nepal. With their impending departure to Tokyo later in the week, time constraints added a sense of urgency to their mission.

Yesterday marked the pivotal moment when the climbers, equipped and prepared, were poised to conquer the summit from their highest camp. Despite favorable weather conditions, their 18-hour ascent encountered a challenging obstacle at 6,000 meters on the treacherous Sharpu Glacier, forcing a reassessment of their plans. With daylight dwindling and the summit out of reach, the team opted to descend.

Read More: Last-Minute Push for Sharpu VI Summit

On their descent, the resilient climbers veered from their original path and scaled a lower peak adjacent to their route. Based on their maps and available information, this previously untouched summit, standing at 5,980 meters, was identified as ThaNagphu. While Sharpu VI remained unconquered, the Japanese team embraced the unexpected opportunity to triumph over the unclimbed ThaNagphu before concluding their expedition.

Setting the Scene

 With Tokyo calling them back later in the week, the Japanese team left little room for setbacks. Establishing two strategic camps and meticulously fixing the route up the formidable 6,076-meter SharpuVI, they meticulously carved a path through this untouched realm nestled between the colossal peaks of Kangchenjunga and Jannu.

The Summit Push

 The decisive moment arrived as the climbers initiated their last-ditch summit push from a high camp, precisely on schedule. Initially blessed with favorable weather, optimism surrounded the ascent. However, the Sharpu Glacier presented an unforeseen challenge at 6,000 meters during the grueling 18-hour push, forcing an abrupt change in plans. The elusive summit slipped away as daylight waned, and a formidable obstacle seemed insurmountable.

Adaptability in Adversity

Undeterred, the Japanese climbers showcased remarkable adaptability and resilience on their descent. Faced with the fading day, they chose to explore an alternative route. Scaling a lower mountain adjacent to their original path, the climbers stumbled upon a previously unclimbed peak, standing at 5,980 meters. Maps and available information identified this newfound summit as ThaNagphu—a serendipitous discovery in the midst of challenging circumstances.

Triumph on ThaNagphu

While Sharpu VI remained unconquered, the climbers turned adversity into an unexpected triumph by successfully summiting ThaNagphu. The unyielding spirit of the Japanese team, confronted with challenges and unforeseen obstacles, not only demonstrated their mountaineering prowess but also their ability to adapt and find victory amidst uncertainty. ThaNagphu, now under their belts, added an unexpected chapter of triumph to their expedition.


The Japanese climbers’ expedition to Sharpu VI, although falling short of the initial summit goal, stands as a riveting tale of resilience in the face of the unpredictable nature of high-altitude exploration. In the pursuit of uncharted peaks, challenges are inevitable, yet the climbers’ indomitable spirit and adaptability define the success of their journey. As they prepare to depart for Tokyo, the trio carries with them not only the memories of a valiant effort on Sharpu VI but also the unexpected triumph of conquering the unclimbed ThaNagphu—a testament to resilience and victory in the face of mountainous uncertainty.

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