Amidst five grueling yet triumphant days, Spaniards Martin Elias, Oriol Baro, and Nicolas Tapia etched a new chapter in mountaineering history by conquering the coveted north ridge of Cerro San Valentin.
Rising majestically to 4,058 meters, Cerro San Valentin, also known as San Clemente, proudly reigns as the tallest peak in western Patagonia, presiding over the Chilean Northern Patagonian Icefield. Adorned with the highest glacier in the region, it stands as a testament to nature’s raw grandeur.
Their arduous ascent unfolded along the Arista Norte (North Ridge) route, a challenging path marked by a mix of ice climbing (WI5), mixed terrain (M5), spanning a staggering 3,000 meters in elevation gain. Commencing a mere 47 meters above sea level, their journey entailed a relentless climb that ultimately gained an astonishing 4,000 meters in altitude.
Traversing the Grosse Glacier over two days alongside two companions, who opted out of the climb, the trio then charted their way up the imposing 1,000-meter west wall, eventually reaching the north ridge at 2,800 meters, where they made camp.
The subsequent day witnessed their ascent along the upper stretches of the north ridge, culminating in conquering both the north summit and the principal peak of Cerro San Valentin. However, the triumph was tinged with adversity during the descent when Baro suffered an ankle injury following a fall. Despite the setback, the climbers persevered, navigating precarious rappels down the same route, punctuated by an additional bivouac before rejoining the Grosse Glacier.
Baro’s condition rendered him unable to walk, prompting a helicopter evacuation while Elias and Tapia pressed on with their descent.
Reflecting on their feat, Elias acknowledged the complexity of logistics and the multitude of inherent risks that underscored the daunting challenge they had confronted.
This extraordinary ascent stands not only as a testament to their unwavering determination but also as a testament to the indomitable human spirit pitted against the formidable forces of nature in the heart of Patagonia’s untamed wilderness.
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