Today, The Summiters gather in solemn remembrance of the courageous mountaineers we lost during the challenges of 2023. These individuals driven by passion and determination pushed the limits of human achievement in their pursuit of summits exploration and adventure.
Reflecting on the words of philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer, we acknowledge the profound pain that accompanies the loss of each vibrant soul. He beautifully articulated that with every passing, there’s an intangible essence, a unique and irreplaceable part of them that vanishes forever, leaving an indelible void.
The list of climbers and explorers who departed last year is extensive, surpassing our ability to enumerate them all here. Yet, their contributions, their daring spirit, and their enduring legacy within the mountaineering community and beyond will forever be honored and remembered with the utmost reverence. Each life lost represents a remarkable story of bravery, resilience, and a commitment to exploring the unknown.
In their honor, we stand together, acknowledging their invaluable impact and paying tribute to their remarkable journeys.
Zach Milligan
On February 12 tragedy struck when Parks Canada discovered the lifeless body of Zach Milligan a 42-year-old climber from the United States at the base of a towering ice cliff within Jasper National Park. The circumstances indicated that Zach had likely suffered a fatal fall casting a somber shadow over the Polar Circus ice climb in the Canadian Rockies.
Zach was known for his remarkable expertise in free solo climbing, conquering both rocky terrains and icy slopes with an impressive level of skill. His adventurous spirit had led him to conquer numerous climbs throughout North America earning him a respected place in the climbing community. Notably in 2021, Zach and Jason Torlando accomplished a groundbreaking feat by being the first to ski down from the summit of Yosemite’s iconic Half Dome to the valley below.
In heartfelt tribute, Zach’s close friend and fellow climber, Chris Van Leuven, shared poignant words with the Calgary Herald. He fondly remembered Zach as not only his favorite companion but also praised his integrity, distinctive worldview, unwavering dedication to his climbing craft, and strong moral principles.
The climbing community mourns the loss of Zach Milligan a passionate and talented individual whose indelible mark in the realm of climbing will forever be cherished and remembered.
Ammon McNeely
Ammon McNeely a Yosemite climber was known for blazing his own trail in the world of climbing. His specialty was conquering towering rock faces and using aid climbing techniques to ascend them. He held multiple records for speed climbing and achieved remarkable feats notably completing the first single-day ascents of numerous challenging routes on El Capitan.
However, tragedy struck on February 18 while he was in Moab, Utah. His sister, Amanda Haywood, shared the heartbreaking details of the accident. Ammon, along with his girlfriend and a friend, ventured to a cliffside to appreciate the sunset. While trying to settle down, he lost his balance due to his prosthetic leg, causing him to slip and fall backward off the precipice. The devastating accident left no room for speculation.
Ammon had faced adversity before. Surviving two serious BASE-jumping accidents in Moab, one in 2013 and another in 2017, demonstrated his resilience. The latter incident led to the amputation of part of his leg. Despite these challenges, he remained an inspiring figure in the climbing and BASE jumping communities.
His outlook on life reflected his adventurous spirit. He once expressed, “I’d rather live 40 years filled with excitement, fun, and exhilaration than endure 80 years of mundane living.”
Ammon’s determination, unique approach to climbing, and unwavering spirit left an indelible mark on those who knew him. His legacy continues to inspire many in the climbing and adventure sports world.
Noel Hanna
Northern Irish mountaineer Noel Hanna met with a tragic end on April 18 at the age of 56. His untimely death followed his triumphant ascent of Annapurna I in the Himalayas accomplished without the aid of supplementary oxygen.
In the challenging moments preceding his passing, adverse weather conditions trapped numerous climbers in Annapurna’s high-altitude camps. These climbers faced dire circumstances, running out of essential supplies such as food, fuel, and supplementary oxygen for those reliant on it. It was amidst this hardship that fellow climbers discovered Noel Hanna in his tent at Camp 4, where he had succumbed to acute mountain sickness.
Noel’s mountaineering legacy was notable. He boasted an impressive record of ascending Everest ten times, utilizing supplementary oxygen in each climb. He also attempted the perilous Winter K2 during the tragic 2021 season. His affection for Nepal was evident through his frequent expeditions in the region. He conquered notable peaks like Ama Dablam, Burke Kang, and the foresummit of Manaslu. Additionally, he courageously ventured to climb Kangchenjunga. His dedication to Nepal was evident in his participation in 20 expeditions within the country alone, underscoring his deep-rooted passion for exploring its majestic peaks.
Tom Hornbein
In May the world bid farewell to Tom Hornbein a towering figure in the Everest climbing legacy at the age of 92. This esteemed American mountaineer had an insatiable fascination with geology and the mystique of mountains. Upon his profession as an anesthesiologist he was amidst the early pioneers in the climbing scene of Boulder Colorado.
The pages of mountaineering history were forever altered in May 1963 when Tom Hornbein in collaboration with Willi Unsoeld carved their names into Everest’s history. Their groundbreaking achievement marked the initial ascent of Everest via the treacherous West Ridge a deed that remains a evidence to their indomitable spirit. The arduous and perilous upper corridor conquered by the duo was fittingly named the Hornbein Couloir in recognition of their extraordinary accomplishment. The interesting saga of their Everest expedition was
celebrated in the documentary “High and Hallowed: Everest 1963” capturing the soul of their breathtaking journey.
In recognition of his glorious contributions Tom Hornbein was given with the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award by the Mountaineers Club based in Seattle in 2018. His enduring legacy reverberates throughout the mountaineering realm, a legacy that transcends mere paragraphs. The loss of this revered figure resonates deeply within the climbing community, as they bid adieu to a monumental icon whose pioneering spirit and remarkable achievements will continue to inspire generations of climbers to come.
Line Van Den Berg
Line Van Den Berg, aged 30, was descending Grosshorn in the Bernese Alps alongside her companions, Mats Wentholt and Jeroen van Ommen, when tragedy struck—a sudden avalanche swept them away. Despite the efforts of emergency services, it took two agonizing days to locate their bodies.
Line was an exceptional climber whose achievements were notable. In January 2022, she achieved a significant milestone by conquering the challenging Phantom Direct route on the north face of Grandes Jorasses, accomplishing this feat in partnership with Fay Manners. Her adventurous spirit extended to Kyrgyzstan, where she displayed her prowess by successfully summiting Pik Alexandra (5,290m) and Pik Currahee (5,025m), both via demanding routes along their formidable north faces.
Her compelling story and experiences were captured in the 2022 documentary titled “My Phantom.” This documentary provided an intimate portrayal of Line, delving into the complexities of her life and exploring the unique challenges and dynamics of being a woman in the climbing community.
In reflecting on her values, Line shared a poignant insight earlier in the year: “Be genuine and open, even when it means revealing your vulnerabilities.” Her words resonated with her genuine approach to life, emphasizing the importance of authenticity in one’s journey, both on and off the mountains.
Luis Stitzinger
Luis Stitzinger, a respected 56-year-old German mountain guide and skier, achieved the summit of Kangchenjunga on May 25 but encountered peril during his descent, ultimately leading to his disappearance. His body was eventually recovered after an extensive search effort.
His ascent to Kangchenjunga’s summit was remarkable as he chose to forego supplementary oxygen, reaching the peak around 5 pm, quite late in the day. Initially planning to ski down, he later reconsidered. By 7 pm, he was still navigating the upper reaches of the mountain.
The last known communication with Stitzinger occurred at 9:30 pm, while he was several hours away from Camp 4. Tragically, no rescue team was able to reach him that day, with unfavorable weather conditions grounding helicopter flights on May 27 and 28. It wasn’t until May 30 that a diligent team of three sherpas located his body at an altitude of approximately 8,400 meters.
Kangchenjunga represented a monumental achievement for Stitzinger, marking his tenth successful summit of a peak surpassing 8,000 meters. Of these summits, he skied down six, showcasing his unparalleled skill and daring approach. Exceptionally, he only relied on supplementary oxygen when guiding on Everest, demonstrating his remarkable strength and endurance in high-altitude climbs. Notably, six of these significant climbs were shared with his wife, Alix von Melle, showcasing their shared passion and determination.
Stitzinger’s skiing prowess extended across challenging terrains, including the Karakoram range, where he conquered peaks like Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and notably skiing down from 7,850 meters on Nanga Parbat. He also left his mark on formidable peaks like K2 (8,050 meters), Shishapangma, and Gasherbrum I. Additionally, he undertook the challenging north face descent of Peak Lenin in the Pamirs, underscoring his fearless spirit and skillful approach to high-altitude skiing endeavors.
Szilard Suhajda
During this spring’s climbing season the mountains witnessed both triumph and tragedy. On Kangchenjunga the loss of Luis Stitzinger was a heartbreaking event with him being the sole climber to lose his life. However on Everest the season was marred by an unprecedented series of tragedies claiming the lives of 18 individuals comprising seasoned mountaineers, clients and sherpas.
Among the casualties was Szilard Suhajda, a Hungarian climber who embarked on the daunting challenge of scaling Everest without relying on bottled oxygen or sherpa assistance. His disappearance struck a chord of deep sorrow as he vanished within a mere 300 vertical meters from reaching the summit. The last documented images captured Suhajda resting at the Balcony, situated at an elevation of approximately 8,450 meters. His final sighting occurred on May 25, close to the base of the formidable Hillary Step, marking a poignant moment before his disappearance. Notably, Szilard had previously conquered daunting peaks like Lhotse, K2, and Broad Peak, showcasing his formidable mountaineering prowess and courage in the face of extreme challenges.
Dimitry Pavlenko
Russian alpinist Dimitry Pavlenko accompanied by his wife Svetlana and two fellow climbers embarked on a challenging ascent of Pobeda Peak towering at an altitude of 7,439 meters within the formidable Tien Shan mountain range. They aimed to conquer the Abalakov route on July 19 starting their arduous summit push from a base camp situated at 6,100 meters. Despite their determination their ascent fell short forcing them to retreat when they reached the 7,300-meter mark unable to reach the summit.
As they descended, their tracking device indicated their progress to 7,200 meters before a sudden drop in one of the climbers’ signals to 6,580 meters. This abrupt change in the tracker readings suggests the possibility of an avalanche striking the climbers during their descent, leading to uncertainties about their safety and whereabouts.
Dimitry Pavlenko was a skilled and civilized climber renowned for his daring spirit and numerous first ascents on challenging routes in the Tien Shan region. His mountaineering prowess extended to his involvement in noteworthy expeditions in the Himalayas where he contributed to groundbreaking achievements including scaling the demanding West Face of Makalu and pioneering a new route on the North Face of Jannu. His expertise and adventurous spirit were highly regarded within the climbing community.
Shinji Tamura
In August Japanese mountain guide Shinji Tamura tragically lost his life while attempting to summit an unnamed 6,800 meter peak in the Karakoram mountain range. Accompanied by Takayasu Semba he followed an alpine style ascent emphasizing self-reliance and natural climbing methods in Pakistan’s Kande Valley. Their expedition took a devastating turn on August 11 resulting in an accident that claimed Tamura’s life and left Semba injured. Regrettably despite search efforts Tamura’s body remained unrecovered.
Tamura and Semba were known for their pursuit of alpine style first ascents seeking the challenge of climbing mountains in a more traditional minimalistic manner. Tamura’s relocation to Zermatt Switzerland, in 1989 marked a pivotal moment in his climbing journey. From 2003 onward, he dedicated himself to guiding high-altitude mountain expeditions, sharing his expertise and passion with aspiring climbers.
Tamura’s mountaineering legacy was rich with experience and achievements. He boasted a remarkable resume having summited Everest four times Manaslu four times and Cho Oyu three times. Additionally his adventurous spirit led him on expeditions to various peaks across the Himalayas and Karakoram. Beyond the Himalayas he sought challenges on Aconcagua Denali Mount Logan and Vinson in Antarctica showcasing his versatile and seasoned approach to conquering some of the world’s most formidable peaks.
Ermanno Salvaterra
On August 18, the mountaineering world mourned the loss of Italian mountain guide Ermanno Salvaterra, aged 68, on Campanile Alto’s west ridge in the Brenta Dolomites. Tragically, Salvaterra suffered a fatal fall while leading a climb on the concluding section of the Hartman-Krauss route. The incident happened when he was about 20 meters from the summit at an elevation of 2,750 meters.
Salvaterra’s legacy was deeply rooted in the Dolomites where he spent over five decades establishing numerous climbing routes. However, his passion and expertise extended far beyond these iconic Italian peaks. He dedicated substantial time and effort to conquer the colossal towers of Patagonia, considering this region a cherished second home. Among his remarkable achievements, Salvaterra’s mastery of Cerro Torre stood out prominently, where he blazed trails by establishing five entirely new and challenging routes. Notably, his mountaineering prowess shone brightly in 1985 when he was an integral part of the pioneering team that achieved the inaugural winter ascent of Cerro Torre, a feat that pushed the boundaries of mountaineering and solidified his place in climbing history.
Dmitry Golovchenko
Russian climber Dmitry Golovchenko regarded as one of the finest contemporary climbers met a tragic fate on August 31 while undertaking the formidable ascent of the 7,925-meter Gasherbrum IV alongside his companion Sergey Nilov. Together they were boldly charting a new path tackling the unexplored southeast ridge seeking to leave their mark on uncharted terrain.
Their expedition garnered attention within the climbing community, but concern arose when all communication abruptly ceased at the close of August. Five days passed without any updates or information regarding their progress.
Despite battling unfavorable weather and slow progress for weeks, Golovchenko and Nilov persevered, scaling up to an altitude of 7,684 meters by August 31. Tragically, a mere 250 vertical meters shy of the summit, a fatal accident unfolded. Golovchenko slipped and fell, tragically plunging into the abyss, dragging their tent with him. Nilov, stationed outside the tent in an attempt to secure it, witnessed the devastating incident.
Left to navigate the treacherous descent alone, Nilov embarked on a perilous journey, rappelling down 15 arduous pitches to the location where Golovchenko had met his untimely end. It was a heartbreaking moment as Nilov discovered Golovchenko had succumbed to the fall.
Golovchenko, at 40 years old, had a remarkable climbing portfolio, marked by numerous extraordinary achievements. He was a recipient of the esteemed Piolet d’Or award, recognized twice for his outstanding accomplishments on Thalay Sagar and Muztagh Tower, accolades that underscored his exceptional skill and daring exploits in the world of climbing.
Juan Senoret and Christophe Henry
Two passionate skiers, Juan Senoret of Chile and Christophe Henry from Chamonix, met a tragic end on the higher reaches of Volcano Puntiagudo, standing at 2,493 meters in Chile. Their fatal accident occurred as they were skiing down, resulting in their untimely deaths.
Henry was renowned for his incredible speed and expertise in descending the classic lines of Chamonix, mastering the slopes with astonishing swiftness. On the other hand, Senoret gained notable recognition from the esteemed Piolet d’Or committee for his remarkable achievement: conquering the challenging north face of Cerro Catedral, a 2,168-meter peak in Torres del Paine, alongside his brother Cristobal Senoret. This daring ascent was esteemed as one of the most significant climbs of 2022, highlighting their prowess and contribution to the climbing world.
Nadya Oleneva
In October, the mountaineering community mourned the loss of Russian climber Nadya Oleneva, whose life tragically ended on the challenging slopes of Dhaulagiri, standing tall at 8,167 meters in Nepal. Alongside her companions Roman Abildaev and Rasim Kashapov, they pursued the ascent without the aid of supplementary oxygen or sherpa support, embracing the challenge with self-reliance.
The unfortunate incident occurred as Oleneva fell from an altitude of approximately 6,600 meters, just shy of reaching Camp 2. Aged 38, she was not only an accomplished mountaineer but also served as a revered mountaineering instructor, showcasing her extensive expertise and experience in navigating high-altitude terrains.
Tenjen Lama Sherpa
In October, tragedy struck on Shishapangma as Tenjen Lama Sherpa lost his life while guiding client Gina Marie Rzucidlo. The mountain was swept by avalanches, claiming the lives of four individuals, including two clients and two Nepalese sherpas, marking one of the most devastating accidents to hit the Himalayas in the year.
Tenjen Lama’s mountaineering history included being part of the challenging winter expedition on Manaslu with Alex Txikon. His expertise and guidance were also instrumental in supporting Kristin Harila’s monumental achievement in setting a speed record for scaling all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters. He stood by her side at every stage of her remarkable journey, contributing significantly to her success and sharing in the triumph of this incredible feat.
