A few weeks ago, the international climbing public was trembled by the news that Kazuya Hiraide (45) and Kenro Nakajima (39) had gone missing on K2’s West Face.
Unfortunately, the situation soon crumbled. It was reported that the climbers had fallen from approximately 7,000 meters while trying to establish a new alpine-style route. A Pakistani army helicopter later spotted them from the air, but, heartbreakingly, they were found motionless in the snow.
Despite their home team’s urgent efforts to arrange a rescue, the perilous terrain, riddled with crevasses, proved too hazardous. Sadly, the rescue operation had to be called off.
Authentic Alpinism, From the Heart
Hiraide and Nakajima earned respect not only for their remarkable climbs and achievements but also for their deep passion for the mountains and their refreshingly candid accounts of their adventures.
In a memorable interview with ExplorersWeb two years ago, Hiraide shared his climbing philosophy, his fascination with untraveled routes, and his experiences on some of the world’s most challenging peaks. His insights offered a glimpse into what drove him and made his climbs so meaningful.
Before diving into exploratory alpine-style routes, both climbers took on some of the world’s most iconic peaks. Hiraide summited Everest three times and also climbed Gasherbrum I. However, he preferred not to dwell on these achievements, noting, “I was there as a cameraman, not pursuing my own dreams.”
In contrast, Nakajima conquered six of the Seven Summits, along with Cho Oyu, Everest, and Manaslu, leaving his own impressive mark on the world of high-altitude climbing.
Following Their Dreams
Before teaming up, both climbers carved out impressive solo climbing resumes.
In 2001, Hiraide reached the western summit of 7,381-meter Kula Kangri in Tibet, showcasing his early prowess.
On September 5, 2005, Hiraide and his partner Kei Taniguchi made headlines with the second ascent of the southeast ridge of 7,546-meter Muztagh Ata, located on the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. Hiraide’s innovative use of skis for the descent of the west flank added a unique twist to their successful climb.
Later that year, the duo continued their string of achievements by tackling 6,543-meter Shivling, ascending via its challenging north face and northwest ridge.
In 2008, Hiraide and Taniguchi achieved a milestone with the first ascent of the southeast face of 7,756-meter Kamet in India, an accomplishment that earned them the esteemed Piolet d’Or award.
In 2009, Hiraide and Taniguchi took on a bold new challenge, aiming to establish a route on the south summit of 7,143-meter Gaurishankar via its northeast face.
Their ambition continued to drive them, and in 2011, they achieved a significant milestone by opening a new route on 7,694-meter Naimona’nyi (also known as Gurla Mandata) in the Nalakankar Himal in Tibet. They ascended via the south face and accomplished the first-ever traverse of this impressive peak.
Hiraide’s pursuit of high-altitude challenges didn’t stop there. He continued to push the limits with remarkable climbs, including 7,010-meter Khan Tengri in the Tian Shan in 2012, 7,266-meter Diran in the Karakoram in 2013, and 7,132-meter Api in far western Nepal in 2015.
Shispare: An Epic Mountain Adventure
Hiraide first set eyes on the imposing 7,611-meter Shispare in 2002 and quickly realized he needed more experience before attempting it.
By 2007, feeling more prepared, he teamed up with Yuka Komatsu for his initial attempt. They aimed for a new route up the middle of the northeast face but had to turn back at 6,000 meters due to unstable snow conditions.
Hiraide’s next attempt came in 2012 with Takuya Mitoro. This time, they focused on the southwest face, but severe weather halted their progress at 5,350 meters.
In 2013, Hiraide made a third attempt, partnering with Kei Taniguchi. Once again, they targeted the southwest face, but a menacing serac higher on the route forced them to retreat at 5,700 meters. Reflecting on the experience, Hiraide confessed to the American Alpine Journal, “I was in despair and pretty sure I wouldn’t return to Shispare.”
The Loss of Taniguchi
Hiraide’s climbing partner, Taniguchi, suffered a tragic death on December 22, 2015, during a mountaineering accident on Mount Kuro in Japan.
The profound loss led Hiraide to deeply question his motivations for climbing. After a period of intense reflection, he resolved to keep pursuing his mountaineering dreams, drawing strength from the belief that Taniguchi’s spirit would accompany him on his journey. Hiraide expressed these poignant thoughts in the American Alpine Journal.
Nakajima: Radiating Unstoppable Energy
Nakajima’s love for mountaineering was deeply convinced by his father, a skilled climber who unfortunately passed away when Nakajima was just five years old.
During his student years, Nakajima made three journeys to the Himalayas. In 2007, he and his university team achieved a significant milestone by making the first ascent of the east face of 6,905-meter Panbari Himal.
The next year, Nakajima, alongside Hiroki Yamamoto, accomplished the first authorized ascent of 6,196-meter Dingjung Ri South in the Rolwaling Himal.
In 2008 Nakajima started focusing on his career as a mountain tour coach and cameraman. By 2013, he embraced a new challenge, attempting an alpine-style climb of 7,282-meter K6 (also known as Baltistan Peak) in Pakistan.
The Powerful Climbing Partnership of Hiraide and Nakajima
Hiraide and Nakajima began their climbing partnership in 2016, quickly making a name for themselves. That autumn, they took on a formidable challenge, opening a new route on 7,095-meter Loinbo Kangri in Tibet. They ascended a direct line up the north-northwest face, demonstrating their exceptional climbing prowess.
Their partnership continued to shine in August 2017 when Nakajima joined Hiraide for another ambitious climb—this time on Shispare. They achieved a major milestone with the first alpine-style ascent of Shispare’s northeast face (2,700 meters, WI5 M6). After reaching the summit, they descended via the east ridge and north spur. They named their route “Shukriya,” meaning “thanks” in Urdu, in gratitude for the experience. Their outstanding achievement was recognized with the prestigious Piolet d’Or award.
Rakaposhi and Karun Koh: Two Majestic Peaks
In 2019, as they awaited a permit for Tirich Mir—a request that ultimately did not materialize—Hiraide and Nakajima shifted their focus to a new challenge: the south side of Rakaposhi. This 7,788-meter peak had remained largely unexplored, with only preliminary scouting done by other teams.
Embracing the adventure, Hiraide and Nakajima tackled the uncharted south face and southeast ridge. Their perseverance paid off when they reached the summit on July 2. This remarkable achievement secured them yet another esteemed Piolet d’Or.
In 2022, Hiraide and Nakajima reached a major milestone with their pioneering ascent of the northwest face of Karun Koh. This remarkable climb marked only the second time anyone had summited this challenging peak.
Tirich Mir: The Majestic Peak
In 2023, Hiraide and Nakajima finally received their long-awaited permit to climb Tirich Mir. They made history with the first ascent of the mountain’s north face, establishing a groundbreaking route called Secret Line. This challenging climb spanned 2,000 meters from the Lower Tirich Glacier to the summit.
The climbing community will profoundly miss Hiraide and Nakajima. Their relentless passion and exceptional accomplishments have solidified their place as two of the most influential alpinists of our time.
