Broad Peak: Disappointment and Frustration as Time Runs Short
High winds continue to thwart all attempts to summit Broad Peak, leaving the climbers at Base Camp feeling exhausted and disheartened. Over the weekend, three Russian climbers made a valiant effort but had to turn back at 7,800 meters due to brutal weather conditions. They spent a harrowing night at Camp 3 before returning to Base Camp today.
Tom Kitta reports that the remaining climbers at Base Camp will gather tonight to hear the Russians’ detailed account of their attempt and make their final decisions.
“Everyone has had enough,” he says, reflecting the general sentiment. Despite the setbacks, there is still a glimmer of hope for one last-ditch attempt on July 25-26, if the weather finally improves.
Ropes Controversy on Broad Peak
Accusations are making the already tense atmosphere at Base Camp even worse. Sabin Thakuri from Nepal’s Blue Ski Treks & Tours has accused Karakorum Expeditions, the Pakistani agency responsible for setting the ropes on Broad Peak, of not doing their job properly. According to Thakuri, they fixed ropes only up to 7,400 meters and then retreated.
“On their way back, they took all 19 bottles of oxygen that were stored at Camp 3 for their clients,” Thakuri wrote on Instagram. This suggests they don’t intend to return.
Back at Base Camp, the team said their members are exhausted, Thakuri added. “They also mentioned that the rope they had wasn’t sufficient..”
The quality and quantity of rope on Broad Peak have been hot topics of controversy. Thakuri noted that this year, over 80 people have permits for Broad Peak, and they’ve all been waiting in vain for the route to be fixed.
Samiya Mirza of Karakorum Expeditions responded to Thakuri’s claims in the comments section of his post.
“Karakorum Expeditions has enough rope to secure routes all the way to the summit,” she wrote. “Even though we’ve had two unsuccessful summit attempts, our team is still determined and ready for another push.”
Similar Sentiments on K2
The atmosphere at K2 Base Camp reflects a similar sense of disillusionment. Some expedition leaders, like Mingma G, are starting to think that 2024 might be a year without any successful summits. Meanwhile, others, such as Benjamin Vedrines from France, are still clinging to hope, waiting for a favorable weather window that could make a summit attempt possible
Source: Explorers Web