Though the intense winds from last week have subsided, Everest is still grappling with a series of issues and setbacks. Sections of ice have collapsed along the perilous Khumbu Icefall route, posing hazards to climbers. Additionally, falling rocks and unstable ice formations are creating obstacles on the treacherous Lhotse Face, adding to the difficulties of the ascent. Moreover, the forceful winds have not spared Camp 3, blowing away tents and further complicating the already demanding conditions for mountaineers.
Icy Troubles and Steep Slopes
Yesterday, Nga Tenjing Sherpa reported that a section of ice had collapsed in the Khumbu Icefall, prompting the sherpa guides to retreat to Base Camp. Fortunately, no injuries were reported, and other climbing teams haven’t mentioned the incident. We’ve reached out to various sources at Base Camp for more details and are awaiting their response.
Fortunately, most climbers are either at Base Camp or have descended further down the mountain. Some have chosen to fly back to Namche Bazaar or Kathmandu to wait out the rough weather conditions.
Meanwhile, climbers who have been at Camps 1 and 2 recently have been evaluating the conditions on the steep Lhotse Face while making their way towards Camp 3. The terrain is proving exceptionally challenging due to a lack of snow.
Alex Abramov from the 7 Summits Club described the situation: “The entire slope was covered in ice, and rocks were tumbling down the mountainside.”
Challenges for Climbers Without Oxygen
Currently, the larger climbing teams are only able to reach Camp 3 before retreating back to Camp 2 due to the lack of tents set up at Camp 3. Strong winds in the past few days have severely damaged the few tents that were set up by climbers not using oxygen tanks.
While this setback may not be significant for those relying on oxygen, it poses a significant problem for the handful of climbers who are undertaking the challenge without bottled oxygen. They must navigate between Camp 3 and Camp 4 before attempting the final ascent to the summit. However, there are currently no ropes beyond the South Col, and sherpas are still occupied with setting up Camp 4.
Piotr Krzyzowski from Poland is one such affected climber. He is striving for a summit of Lhotse without oxygen and reached Camp 3 on Saturday, only to discover that his tent and gear had been swept away by the strong winds. He now finds himself sheltered in his spare tent with borrowed equipment, bracing for the snowfall.
Norrdine Nouar from Germany, who is also aiming for Everest without supplementary oxygen, has been stranded at Camp 2 for the past week. Despite the adverse conditions, he refuses to descend further. Nouar claims to be the sole client at Camp 2, with others having descended, while sherpas are occupied with setting up tents and supplying Camp 4 with ample oxygen.
Ironically, the inclement weather may bring a silver lining. Fresh snowfall is finally covering the mountainside, potentially improving conditions once it settles.
Nouar reported yesterday over InReach: “There’s 7-8cm of fresh snow and no wind in the Western Cwm, which is quite promising. It will aid in navigating the icy conditions on the Lhotse Face and decrease the risk of rockfall, which has been quite intense.”
Other Nepali peaks over 8,000 meters, such as Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga, are also grappling with adverse weather conditions. This is causing delays in rope fixing, acclimatization, and summit attempts.
Update on Everest North Side
Great news! The permits have finally arrived for the handful of Western teams looking to climb Everest from the North Side. With the paperwork sorted, progress is expected to move swiftly on the Tibetan side of the mountain. Base Camp and the route are fully prepared (there’s already a Chinese team on the mountain), and the climbers have completed their acclimatization process.
Lukas Furtenbach has confirmed, “It will be a nimble and efficient expedition with a small team taking on the mountain.”
Members of the Climbalaya team, including Scott Cutlan, Laurent Departe, Fura Cheten Sherpa, and Lhakpa Chhiring Sherpa, have successfully summited Ama Dablam as part of their preparations for Everest. They will be making their way to Tibet this week.
Travel Disruptions in Nepal Due to Wildfires
Currently, people making their way to destinations like Pokhara and Lukla are facing challenges in securing flights due to extensive wildfires. In such circumstances, helicopters present a more viable option for transportation.
