While Pakistan’s towering 8,000-meter peaks are now silent, August presents an ideal window for rock climbing teams to explore new and challenging routes on the country’s impressive big walls.
This month seasoned climbers Matteo de Zaiacomo and Chiara Gusmeroli are embarking on an exciting expedition to the rock spires of Pakistans Nangma Valley. These peaks which rise between 4000 and 6000 meters might not match the dizzying heights of the famed Karakoram titans like the Trango Towers but they offer climbers an array of highly technical new routes to conquer. Often referred to as the “Yosemite of the Karakoram” this area is celebrated for its striking rock formations and the exhilarating climbing opportunities it provides.
As de Zaiacomo and Gusmeroli prepare to navigate these pristine routes, their journey highlights the endless possibilities for adventure and discovery in Pakistan’s majestic landscapes.
Majestic Big Walls
Although Matteo de Zaiacomo is just 31 and Chiara Gusmeroli is only 27, they have been dreaming about this ambitious project for a decade. Their goals are set on scaling the majestic 5,850-meter Amin Brakk and the striking 5,980-meter Shingu Charpa.
“These are some of the most beautiful granite spires we’ve ever seen, even if only in photographs,” they shared with the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). We can’t wait to see them up close.
The adventurous duo flew to Pakistan yesterday, brimming with excitement and determination. They plan to spend 25 days fully immersed in the breathtaking mountains, ready to tackle the challenges and revel in the beauty of the terrain.
Amin Brakk was first conquered by Spanish climbers Silvia Vidal, Pep Masip, and Miguel Puigdomenech in 1999. They spent over 30 intense days scaling a 1,650-meter route up the center of the west face, which they named Sol Solet.
For Shingu Charpa, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Chiara Gusmeroli have their sights set on the unclimbed 1,600-meter north ridge. They describe it as one of the most ambitious and breathtaking mountaineering challenges in the valley.
“It is one of the most beautiful climbs imaginable,” they shared.
Flexible Strategy
The climbers also have their sights set on other potential goals, such as the 6,447-meter Drifika. Their overall plan remains flexible, as they hope to climb at least one of these three peaks and explore some shorter routes on the valley walls during brief weather windows.
“The valley offers the advantage of being able to adapt our plans depending on the conditions,” they explained to the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). “If it’s too dry for mixed climbing, the rock climbing opportunities are almost endless. Conversely, if there’s heavy snow, we can switch to snow and ice routes.”
This adaptability allows them to make the most of their expedition, regardless of the challenges the weather might present.
Matteo de Zaiacomo is a rising star among Italy’s new generation of elite big-wall climbers. In 2022, he achieved a remarkable feat by opening a new route on the East face of Cerro Torre with Matteo della Bordella and David Bacci. During the climb’s upper sections, they joined forces with Corrado Pesce and Tomas Aguilo. Although their ascent was a triumph, it turned into a tragedy when Aguilo and Pesce tragically perished during the descent.
Together, Zaiacomo and Chiara Gusmeroli have also successfully tackled the impressive Afanasieff route on Fitz Roy. They are passionate advocates for clean climbing, committed to leaving no trace by avoiding drilling and not leaving ropes on their routes.
