Gasherbrum II Climb Falls Short of Record; Tensions Rise on Broad Peak
As climbers return to Base Camp after successfully summiting Gasherbrum II, they recount tales of their arduous expedition. They persevered through long hours of navigating dense fog, faced relentless high winds, and had to forge new trails on both summit days, showcasing their resilience and determination.
Meanwhile, over on Broad Peak, the situation is markedly different. Many climbers, disheartened and frustrated, have abandoned their attempts. Yet, a handful remain undeterred, clinging to the hope of a last-minute push despite unpredictable weather and lingering concerns about the fixed ropes. Their determination to reach the summit remains unshaken, highlighting the indomitable spirit of mountaineers.
Druelle Falls Short of FKT
Vadim Druelle made a triumphant return to Base Camp yesterday after completing a remarkable, single-push ascent of Gasherbrum II under harsh conditions. Setting off from Base Camp at 4:55 pm, Druelle reached the summit 17 hours and 17 minutes later. He shared with his team back home that he began the climb solo.
As he ascended to around 7,000 meters, Druelle encountered a team also aiming for the summit. From that point he took the lead and breaking trail through fresh snow until he reached the summit on July 22 at 10:12 am local time.
Determining an executive Fastest Known Time (FKT) for the 8,000-meter peaks is notoriously difficult. Previous fast climbs often did not record precise starting points, and the conditions on the route can vary widely. Despite Druelle’s impressive speed, he cannot claim the FKT. In 1997, Anatoli Boukreev from Kazakhstan ascended from Advanced Base Camp (5,800m) to the summit in just 9 hours and 30 minutes.
Summit Sprint
Ibrahimi and Sanu Sherpa embarked on a challenging 30-hour journey from Camp 2 (at approximately 6,400 meters) to the summit of Gasherbrum II and back. Their extraordinary effort culminated in reaching the summit at 7 am Pakistan time on July 21, making them the first climbers to summit Gasherbrum II this year. This achievement also marked a significant milestone for Ibrahimi from Albania-Kosovo, who has now conquered all the 8,000-meter peaks in Pakistan.
Dorota Rasinska-Samocko, climbing with Seven Summit Treks, recounted her experience on social media: “I summited at 10 am on July 21, after nearly 23 hours of continuous climbing from 6,500 meters. We were breaking trail, facing numerous crevasses and strong winds on the ridge. We had to search for a route from Camp 3 because there were no fixed lines, making the traverses extremely dangerous.”
According to Seven Summit Treks, more climbers reached the summit today.
So far no one has attempted Gasherbrum I and also known as Hidden Peak, this season. However, Seven Summit Treks announced their hope to lead a team to its summit in the coming days.
Broad Peak Climbers Voice Discontent
The situation on Broad Peak remains uncertain and chaotic. Climbers at Base Camp report that the rope fixers have retreated from the mountain, with no apparent plans to return. This development has led several climbers, including Andres Vilalta and Cristobal Cuello from Spain, to make the tough decision to call off their expedition.
Some climbers, who wished to stay anonymous, informed ExplorersWeb that the rope-fixing team retrieved their gear and supplies as they descended to Base Camp. The removal of previous social media posts criticizing the rope situation hints at underlying tensions.
Last evening, expedition leaders at Base Camp decided to make one final attempt if weather conditions improve over the next few days. However, the fixed ropes currently end below the Col, and there are no ropes on the lengthy summit ridge. So, even with better weather, the situation remains uncertain and will depend on how events unfold.