The 2023 Piolets d’Or awards for this year have recognized outstanding achievements in mountaineering on various challenging peaks. The recipients include climbers who successfully completed new routes on Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan, Jugal Spire in Nepal, and Jirishanca in Peru, with teams representing France, the UK, and Canada, respectively. Additionally, there was a special mention for a new route on Greenland’s Sun Spire, accomplished by an international all-female team committed to a low carbon footprint during their expedition.
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Jirishanca (ca. 6,094m), south-southeast spur
Canadian climbers Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts made history by completing the first ascent of the south-southeast spur of Jirishanca, one of the highest peaks in the Huayuash range in Peru. Their challenging 1,000m route, named “Reino Hongo” (Mushroom Kingdom), was graded at M7 AI5+ 90°. It’s worth noting that Jirishanca is rarely climbed, making their achievement even more remarkable. Berg and Roberts met a team from the U.S. on the summit and used their route for descent, necessitating an extra night on the mountain. The jury praised their “inspiring line” that was climbed in the spirit of adventure and alpine style.
Jirishanca, with its towering altitude of approximately 6,094 meters, is a striking peak nestled within the Huayuash range in Peru. What sets Jirishanca apart is its formidable south-southeast spur, a challenging and rarely attempted route that was recently conquered by Canadian climbers Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts. This intrepid duo achieved a remarkable feat by successfully completing the first ascent of this highly technical route, which they fittingly named “Reino Hongo” (Mushroom Kingdom). With a daunting 1,000-meter vertical rise, the route was a true test of their mountaineering skills, featuring a demanding mix of M7 AI5+ 90° terrain. What makes their accomplishment even more impressive is the relative obscurity of Jirishanca in the climbing world, as this peak is rarely explored by mountaineers. Their encounter with another U.S. team on the summit added an unexpected twist to their adventure. Their decision to use their route for the descent led to an extra bivouac night on the mountain. The jury’s recognition of their achievement as an “inspiring line” climbed in the true spirit of adventure and alpine style underlines the significance of their accomplishment on this challenging and seldom-explored Peruvian peak.
Pumari Chhish East (ca. 6,850m)
The French team of Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, and Jerome Sullivan successfully ascended the eastern and most technical point of the Pumari Chhish group in Pakistan, north of the Hispar Glacier. Their route, known as “The Crystal Ship,” stretched over 1,600m on the south face and upper west ridge and was graded 6b A2 M7. The team endured 26 consecutive days of bad weather before seizing an optimistic weather window, starting their ascent during the night and rappelling down in the afternoon. The jury recognized their “elegant line” and noted the collective effort and team spirit that made their ascent exceptional.
Pumari Chhish East, standing tall at an approximate elevation of 6,850 meters, is a formidable mountain in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. This peak is a testament to the allure and difficulty of high-altitude mountaineering, making it an enticing challenge for elite climbers. In 2022, a determined French team comprised of Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, and Jerome Sullivan embarked on their sixth expedition to conquer this formidable summit. Their successful ascent was a significant achievement as they tackled the eastern and most technical facet of the Pumari Chhish group, located north of the Hispar Glacier. The route they pioneered, aptly named “The Crystal Ship,” spanned an impressive 1,600 meters and involved a complex mix of climbing conditions, graded at 6b A2 M7. The team faced a grueling test of endurance and patience, enduring 26 consecutive days of adverse weather conditions. However, their perseverance paid off when a brief window of favorable weather allowed them to make their ascent. The climbers’ dedication and unwavering spirit shone through, as they successfully navigated this arduous route. The jury’s admiration for their “elegant line” and acknowledgment of their collective teamwork underscore the significance of this ascent, as it confronted one of Pakistan’s enduring mountaineering challenges. Pumari Chhish East remains an emblem of both the allure and the difficulty of high-altitude alpinism in the Karakoram.
Jugal Spire (aka Dorje Lhakpa II, 6,563m)
UK climber Paul Ramsden and his partner Tim Miller embarked on a remarkable journey in Nepal to tackle the unclimbed north face of Jugal Spire. This challenging 1,300m route, which featured a hidden section of ice, earned the name “The Phantom Line” and was graded as ED. Ramsden and Miller displayed ambitious exploratory mountaineering, relying on simple alpine style without ascenders, bolts, or weather forecasts, earning Ramsden his fifth golden ice axe.
Jugal Spire, also known as Dorje Lhakpa II, is a striking and challenging peak that rises to an altitude of approximately 6,563 meters in the beautiful and rugged Himalayan terrain of Nepal. This mountain, like many in the Himalayas, presents a formidable challenge to mountaineers due to its remote location, technical difficulties, and unpredictable weather. In 2022, the UK’s Paul Ramsden and his climbing partner Tim Miller took on the unclimbed north face of Jugal Spire in an audacious alpine-style expedition. Their accomplishment is a testament to their dedication and the exploratory spirit that drives mountaineers to seek new and uncharted routes. Their chosen route, aptly named “The Phantom Line,” extended over 1,300 meters, and it was a unique blend of ice and rock. This remarkable climb was graded as ED, denoting its extreme difficulty. What made their ascent even more noteworthy was their minimalist approach, relying on just two sacks, two ropes, one tent, and no ascenders, bolts, or weather forecasts. This approach epitomizes the essence of exploratory mountaineering, focusing on simplicity and effective alpine-style techniques. Paul Ramsden, a seasoned mountaineer, lauded the route as one of the best he had ever climbed, and his achievement was rewarded with a fifth golden ice axe. The Piolets d’Or jury celebrated their achievement as an example of ambitious exploratory mountaineering, emphasizing the values of simplicity and a commitment to alpine-style climbing, where the climber’s skill and resourcefulness take precedence over technological aids or external support. Jugal Spire, with its challenging and unexplored north face, remains an icon in the world of alpine mountaineering, and this ascent underscores the indomitable spirit of exploration that continues to drive climbers to new heights.
Special Mention: Northern Sun Spire (1,527m)
An international all-female team, which included climbers and sailors, embarked on a unique adventure. They sailed from La Rochelle, led by Skipper Marta Guemes, with climbers Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, and Nadia Royo, along with photographer Ramona Waldner. After navigating rough seas and packed ice, they anchored in East Greenland with only 10 days left to complete a 780m-long rock route graded at 6b- and 7b+. Following their ascent, the team spent an additional four weeks and covered 7,400km at sea on their return journey to France. The jury commended their “fine adventure” and their minimal carbon footprint.
In addition to these remarkable achievements, it’s important to note that the Piolets d’Or organizers previously compiled a list of 53 “significant ascents” worldwide, emphasizing alpine and capsule-style climbs with minimal drilling, showcasing the dedication of climbers and their commitment to preserving the integrity of the mountains they conquer.
