Home NEWS New Route on Civetta’s East Face in the Dolomites

New Route on Civetta’s East Face in the Dolomites

by thesummiters.com
0 comment

This winter in the Alps is a nostalgic return to classic wintry conditions – frosty air, a blanket of snow, and local climbers reveling in the abundance of climbing opportunities. The stark contrast to the dryness of the previous season has brought renewed vigor to the region.

Among the climbing enthusiasts, some are patiently waiting for weeks, with dreams of conquering specific ice routes, while others serendipitously stumble upon new prospects as they cast their eyes upon the majestic mountains. Such a fortuitous encounter unfolded two weeks ago on one of the Dolomites’ iconic peaks.

Climbing on Civetta’s east face. Photo: Mathieu Maynadier
Climbing on Civetta’s east face. Photo: Mathieu Maynadier

Diving into the realm of Civetta

Civetta stands renowned for its formidable limestone walls, particularly the awe-inspiring 1,000-meter-long northwest face. In winter, as downhill skiers gracefully navigate the slopes around the massif in the expansive ski area near Cortina d’Ampezzo, climbers cast their gaze upwards in search of untouched challenges.

During a drive through the region, the observant French climber, Matthieu Maynadier, and his Italian counterpart, Francesco Favilli, spotted a promising line on the East face of Civetta. A fascinating amalgamation of rock and ice unfolded within a gully, capturing their adventurous spirits.

The climbers on the new route. Photo: Mathieu Maynadier
The climbers on the new route. Photo: Mathieu Maynadier

Without delay, they enlisted the expertise of guide Christian Casanova, and the trio embarked on a spontaneous two-day expedition. The outcome? A breathtaking 560-meter mixed route, presenting challenges graded at M6+/WI5. Notably, Favilli, Maynadier, and Casanova opted for a bold approach, relying solely on retrievable gear, steering clear of using any bolts to secure their ascent. Upon reaching the summit, their descent followed the via ferrata degli Alleghesi.

Matthieu Maynadier, recognized for his extensive climbing repertoire that includes a notable new route on Meru South in India last year, humbly considers the Civetta ascent as his “introduction to Dolomites’ alpine climbing.”

The meticulous climbers marked their triumphant route in red on a photograph capturing Civetta’s face, while details of the route adorned the upper left corner. This expedition stands as a thrilling testament to the indomitable spirit of winter adventure in the breathtaking Dolomites.


You may also like

Leave a Comment

This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Read More