This winter in the Alps is a nostalgic return to classic wintry conditions – frosty air, a blanket of snow, and local climbers reveling in the abundance of climbing opportunities. The stark contrast to the dryness of the previous season has brought renewed vigor to the region.
Among the climbing enthusiasts, some are patiently waiting for weeks, with dreams of conquering specific ice routes, while others serendipitously stumble upon new prospects as they cast their eyes upon the majestic mountains. Such a fortuitous encounter unfolded two weeks ago on one of the Dolomites’ iconic peaks.
Diving into the realm of Civetta
Civetta stands renowned for its formidable limestone walls, particularly the awe-inspiring 1,000-meter-long northwest face. In winter, as downhill skiers gracefully navigate the slopes around the massif in the expansive ski area near Cortina d’Ampezzo, climbers cast their gaze upwards in search of untouched challenges.
During a drive through the region, the observant French climber, Matthieu Maynadier, and his Italian counterpart, Francesco Favilli, spotted a promising line on the East face of Civetta. A fascinating amalgamation of rock and ice unfolded within a gully, capturing their adventurous spirits.
Without delay, they enlisted the expertise of guide Christian Casanova, and the trio embarked on a spontaneous two-day expedition. The outcome? A breathtaking 560-meter mixed route, presenting challenges graded at M6+/WI5. Notably, Favilli, Maynadier, and Casanova opted for a bold approach, relying solely on retrievable gear, steering clear of using any bolts to secure their ascent. Upon reaching the summit, their descent followed the via ferrata degli Alleghesi.
Matthieu Maynadier, recognized for his extensive climbing repertoire that includes a notable new route on Meru South in India last year, humbly considers the Civetta ascent as his “introduction to Dolomites’ alpine climbing.”
The meticulous climbers marked their triumphant route in red on a photograph capturing Civetta’s face, while details of the route adorned the upper left corner. This expedition stands as a thrilling testament to the indomitable spirit of winter adventure in the breathtaking Dolomites.
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