Weather Disrupts French Climbers’ Bold Alpine-Style Ascent in Pakistan

Bad conditions thwarted two seasoned alpinists in their daring attempt to establish a new alpine-style route in Pakistan.

“Trivor will keep its secrets; we could not reach the summit,” wrote Helias Millerioux of France.

Millerioux, along with fellow Chamonix guide Yannick Graziani, both Piolet d’Or winners, set out to pioneer a new route up the southeast ridge of Trivor (7,600m) in the Karakoram’s Batura range.

After enduring 12 days stuck in base camp due to relentless rain and snow above 6,000 meters, Millerioux and Graziani decided to take a gamble on a weather window predicted for July 25-28. Climbing in pure alpine style—no oxygen, no support, in a single push—they embarked on their ascent last Monday.

To avoid the regular morning avalanches, they climbed in the afternoons, tackling the long southeast corridor on the first day. On the second day, they reached the crux: 150 vertical meters of heavily corniced terrain.

While at base camp, the climbers believed they had spotted a feasible path through. However, as they approached on July 24, the way up remained unclear. They considered pressing on to explore further, but it was still snowing, and Graziani’s health was deteriorating. He feared he might worsen higher up on the more challenging terrain.

“We were not strong enough,” Millerioux admitted.

Ultimately, they retreated back to base camp and hiked out yesterday, leaving Trivor’s secrets intact.

“Trivor has only been climbed once before,” Millerioux noted. “Establishing a new route on a major Karakoram peak is a rare achievement. It demands immense perseverance and a deep sense of humility.”