This weekend, two incredible FKT runners, Tyler Andrews and Chris Fisher, are gearing up for a big challenge: attempting to break the speed record on Lhotse, one of the towering peaks of the Himalayas. Originally, they had their sights set on Pumori for their record-breaking attempt, but due to the unpredictable weather conditions, they’ve decided to shift their focus to Lhotse. With a clear route and favorable weather forecasted, they see this as the perfect opportunity to go for the Fastest Known Time (FKT).
After spending some time in Kathmandu, they’ve returned to Everest Base Camp to finalize their preparations. Before their big attempt, they plan to acclimatize one last time on Lhotse, climbing up to around 8,000 meters, possibly even reaching 8,200 meters.
Their target dates for the record attempt are set for around May 18-19, when the weather is expected to be at its best.
Leading up to this, they’ve already completed one practice run on Lhotse, going up to the beginning of the steeper section of the climb just above Camp 2.
While they’re eager to take on Pumori as well, their main focus after Lhotse is Makalu. However, they’re facing a tight deadline as the monsoon season is fast approaching.
Their plans for Pumori had to be put on hold due to the dangerous avalanche conditions, which prevented the Sherpa rope fixers from preparing the route. Fortunately, the route on Lhotse became available last week, giving them a new target to aim for.
Navigating the mountains requires flexibility and patience, as conditions can change rapidly. Tyler and Chris are prepared for whatever challenges come their way, ready to adapt and persevere in pursuit of their goals.
Added Challenges Ahead
Tyler Andrews and Chris Fisher are gearing up for a demanding journey, despite the familiarity of the path and the presence of ropes on Lhotse. Besides contending with the extreme altitude, they’ll also need to navigate around slower climbers who share the route up to the Geneva Spur at 7,600 meters. It’s only beyond this point that the paths to Lhotse and Everest diverge, leading to a reduction in the number of climbers.
Today, strong winds on Everest have caused some climbers to delay their plans. If the weather improves over the weekend, there could be an influx of climbers.
On Makalu, it’s not the crowds that pose a challenge, but rather the relentless winds and harsh conditions. Despite the mountain being relatively empty after two previous summit attempts resulted in casualties, the lack of maintenance on the route is a significant concern. Stefi Troguet from Andorra attempted to summit Makalu last weekend but encountered difficulties as several sections of the route lacked fixed ropes.
