The fresh series on ExplorersWeb is an exciting exploration into winter climbing spots across the globe. Kicking off this frosty adventure is Scotland, presented by none other than Tim Miller, a well-known climber born and raised in this beautiful terrain.
What makes Scotland stand out in the winter climbing scene, according to Tim, is its knack for delivering thrilling escapades in the embrace of relatively smaller mountains. Despite its highest peak, Ben Nevis, standing at a modest 1,345 meters, this country offers a winter wonderland that’s nothing short of epic.
Tim Miller paints a vivid picture of Scotland’s winter allure, describing it as an opportunity for arctic-like experiences. The cold winds, frosty landscapes, and challenging terrain might be found in the heart of smaller mountains, but they pack a punch when it comes to adventure. He cautions against underestimating the Scottish winter, emphasizing that despite the mountains not towering as high as some others, the thrill and challenge they offer are in no way diminutive.
“Is Nick available?” asked someone
Detailing the uniqueness of Scottish winters to ExplorersWeb, Miller expressed, “Our winter weather is quite distinct. It tends to be pretty rough, with frequent rain and blizzards. If you’re holding out for a clear, calm day, you might find only a handful throughout the entire season. Being prepared for challenging weather is just part of the deal.”
He elaborated further, In our climbing culture, we uphold certain ethics. There’s a strict no to bolts or any permanent fixtures. Instead, we rely on gear like nuts, hexes, and items that can be hammered in, such as peckers and pitons. Cams aren’t ideal due to ice filling the cracks.
“At the start of the season, Scotland doesn’t have much water ice,” Miller explained. “It comes later. Initially, we engage in what’s called mixed climbing on soft, thin ice. It’s a white surface covered with hoar frost and rime. When the rock appears black, it’s a sign that it’s not yet suitable for climbing.”
When we venture into winter mixed climbing, we seek that glossy, silvery sheen on the surface. Among local climbers, a face deemed suitable for winter climbing is often referred to as being ‘in nick, Miller shared.
He cautioned, “It’s vital to ensure the rock’s surface is frozen to minimize damage. However, achieving that requires extremely cold conditions.”
Weather: bad is good
“The weather for climbing in Scotland might seem a bit challenging, especially for those used to warmer places,” remarked the writer.
Miller added, “It’s quite interesting. You often spend an entire day slowly making progress up the wall, sometimes just gaining a few centimeters at a time. Completing a three-part climb can take the whole day.”
In the northern latitudes, daylight hours are limited, and most of the journey begins in the darkness. Navigating through snow and swirling snowflakes can pose navigation challenges.
However, Scotland’s winter season extends extensively, spanning from November to mid-April. “Predicting it is tough,” Miller mentioned. “Some years, climbing routes are ready in October, but then a warm spell in December can quickly erase those mixed routes. Last year, November and December were excellent, but things changed in January.”
The Cairngorms, renowned for winter climbing, endure a subarctic climate. At times, the blizzards are so fierce that maintaining balance becomes a challenge, and the featureless plateaus make orientation difficult.
Moreover, climbing in these conditions progresses slowly, often leading to dusk before completion. Returning to the car amidst pitch darkness becomes the norm.
“At the end of the day,” Miller reflected, “you might spend 13 or 14 hours climbing just three parts. But that’s the essence of a grand adventure, even though the mountains themselves aren’t towering!”
Where to go
“Scotland has played a huge role in shaping my climbing skills,” Miller shared enthusiastically.
“It’s an incredible place to prepare for bigger challenges, like tackling the Himalayas. During summer, you’ve got traditional climbing, and then comes winter with its unique set of climbing experiences,” he elaborated.
Explaining the regional differences, Miller highlighted, “On the west coast of Scotland, you’ll find more opportunities for mountaineering, whereas the east coast is more geared towards regular climbing activities.”
The Cairngorms emerge as a hotspot for winter climbers. With their lofty cliffs often boasting favorable conditions, they’re conveniently accessible from the park, making them a favorite among climbers.
“Glencoe is another gem,” Miller recommended. And for those keen on water ice and gullies, the iconic choice is Ben Nevis.
He pointed out Hamish Frost’s contributions, suggesting, “Check out the posts by Hamish Frost, especially if you’re on the lookout for the best climbing spots in Scotland. He’s working on a book and has some incredible drone footage, like the one capturing Matt Pavitt scaling Fallout Corner in the northern Corries of Cairngorms.”
“Locals often tout Scotland’s northwest corner as the ultimate climbing paradise, despite its remote location. For those seeking challenging mixed climbing experiences, Torridon stands out,” Miller emphasized, noting the allure of the Isle of Skye as well.
However, Miller cautioned about popular spots like the northern Corries and the classic ice routes on Ben Nevis, warning about potential crowding issues. “It’s wise to have a backup plan ready. Yet, on the flip side, Scotland offers countless remote areas where you could spend an entire day climbing without encountering another soul,” he added, highlighting the vastness and solitude that some regions offer.
“Visiting Scotland for winter climbing might pose challenges for those coming from elsewhere,” Tim Miller acknowledged. However, having connections with local climbers can make a world of difference. They’re well-versed in identifying the right conditions for climbing.
He highlighted an excellent opportunity: “The British Mountaineering Council hosts a week-long winter meet every few years. During these gatherings, climbers from other countries team up with experienced UK climbers.”
The most recent meeting took place in 2020, Miller noted. “It’s important to know that the huts in Scotland are basic shelters, not the luxurious mountain hotels you might find in the Alps.”
Offering insight into determining climbable conditions, Miller distilled it into a straightforward guideline: “The key is ensuring it’s cold enough.” This crucial factor significantly impacts the feasibility and safety of winter climbing in Scotland.
