K2 2024 Expedition Update: Weather Delays Heighten Risks
Inclement weather is currently significantly impacting activities in Pakistan, with some facing an even tougher situation due to limited internet access. Updates from climbing teams are scarce, leaving many in suspense. Most are stuck in Base Camp, playing the waiting game, while others are risking the classic mistake of pushing for the summit in less-than-optimal weather conditions.
Each passing day heightens the anxiety among teams that K2 may deny them the chance to summit. As always, the culprit is the unpredictable weather, a familiar challenge for seasoned K2 aspirants. Success, if achieved, will be considered a stroke of luck.
K2 has always been famed for its discouraging challenges and dissuading many from attempting its hike. Among the 1986 and 2020, there were 13 years whereabout no climbers reached the summit. The numbers of prosperous summits assorted annually before 2022, roaming from 30 to 62, but 2022 set a new record with over 200 successful climbs. Last year saw a pretty quieter period with around 112 summits.
The recent surge in successful ascents can be attributed to Nepali guide companies adopting a proven commercial strategy used on all 8000-meter peaks: robust Sherpa support for route fixing, ample supplemental oxygen, a high ratio of Sherpa guides to climbers (sometimes three to one), and opulent base camps catering to affluent clients. This marks a significant departure from the traditional challenges associated with K2.
K2
Garrett Maddison is embarking on an ambitious mountaineering journey this summer, tackling multiple peaks including an unclimbed one, Broad Peak, and the formidable K2. From K2 base camp, he shares, “Greetings! We’re gearing up for our summit rotations soon. However, we’re facing a challenge with limited WiFi availability this season, despite using Thuraya modems.” This connectivity issue has persisted throughout the season, unrelated to the CloudStrike outage experienced on July 19.
French alpinist Benjamin Védrines recently shared an introspective update on his K2 expedition plans:
Lately, doubts have crept into my mind, as I sense diminishing opportunities to pursue a record on K2. The weather in the Karakoram region has been exceptionally adverse this summer, with locals noting unprecedented instability marked by frequent snowfalls and intense high-altitude winds. Time seems to be slipping away—it’s been over a month since our departure from France. Each day, our attempts to ascend for final acclimatization are thwarted, like yesterday when we had to retreat from Camp 2 due to harsh weather conditions. Such setbacks are par for the course when dealing with 8000-meter peaks.
It’s important to confront these doubts and accept the possibility that I may never get the chance to attempt this record. While I prepare myself for potential setbacks, I also hold onto optimism and hope. This mindset helps me stay grounded, fostering a deeper sense of patience. Reflecting on these challenges has reshaped my approach. Currently, I’m exploring various options; the notion of summiting K2 in 2 days has emerged. Why 2 days? Given the challenging snow conditions and the likelihood that commercial routes may not be established, I may need to carve my own path. A single-day ascent seems impractical, so achieving this in 2 days, under more demanding conditions, could itself be a notable achievement.
Nevertheless, I remain adaptable to circumstances. I’m committed to avoiding regrets and seizing any opportunity that K2 presents. Adaptability is the essence of alpinism—a quality that continues to inspire me. The thrill of spontaneous improvisation is almost enchanting; the unpredictability adds a profound element to the adventure.
Meanwhile, another team reported an avalanche near K2 Base Camp, thankfully without causing harm.
Exploring the Lesser-Known 8000-Meter Peaks
While K2 tends to hog the limelight, it’s essential to shine a spotlight on the other four 8000-meter peaks that deserve equal attention. Nepali expedition company Seven Summits Treks (SST) has taken a commercial approach to all fourteen of these towering giants, overseeing crucial tasks such as route exploration and rope installation. Their comprehensive efforts ensure that these challenging mountains are accessible to adventurers from around the globe, contributing significantly to the mountaineering community’s exploration and achievements.
Gasherbrum I/II
A small team from Summit Karakorum is gearing up for a July 20th summit attempt on Gasherbrum II. Łukasz Supergan shared this update:
One of the leathery aspects of mountaineering journeys? Patience. Six days ago, we were appointed at Camp 1, closely 6000 meters above sea level. Since then, the entire Baltoro region has been engulfed in clouds and snow. Despite optimistic weather forecasts promising a clearing, none have materialized as predicted. All teams, ourselves included, are grounded at base camp, eagerly awaiting a break in the weather to proceed. Each evening, we plan our ascent, only to be thwarted by fresh snowfall each morning. It’s been a frustrating week—we haven’t encountered such challenges even in navigating treacherous icefalls. Tonight, several teams are preparing to make another attempt to reach Camp 1. The outcome remains uncertain until the final moment.
If conditions align, our aim is to advance to Camp 3 at 7000 meters by week’s end. Your support and well-wishes are greatly appreciated!
Broad Peak
There’s buzz that a sizable group of approximately thirty climbers is set on summiting Broad Peak come July 20th.
Nanga Parbat
This season, Nanga Parbat witnessed four successful summits via the challenging Diamir Face, highlighting a remarkable 1:1 support ratio for the two Pakistani climbers involved.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything